April 8, 2014  Mazatlan

We have been in Mazatlan nearly six weeks now and it’s almost time to untie the lines and head for open water again.  We didn’t expect to be here this long but it’s worked out very well for us.  We’re surrounded by lots of other cruisers, some who are getting ready to put their boats ‘to bed’ for a few months while they head home for the hottest part of summer in Mexico.

Most nights fishermen threw nets out at dusk,
just across the channel from Falcon

The last two weeks have been spent working on boat maintenance and two large sewing projects.  We rented an unused shop on the main floor at the marina for two weeks to use for our sewing projects.  In addition to the shop space the marina manager also lent us a bunch of small round and square tables to sew on.  We lugged our huge Sailrite industrial strength sewing machine up to the shop and started our work.  Jim was the project designer and sewer and I was his able assistant.  We sewed a 20’ x 16’ sun awning to cove the most of the boat this summer while we stay at the docks in Nuevo Vallarta.  We have to make another one for the front of the boat but that'll have to wait until we have more material.

Our storefront set up with loads of tables and our sewing machine.
Jim's sewing a reinforced side strip to keep the awning in place.

This was a big project but one that was necessary to complete before the weather gets even hotter.  We finished the sun awning, complete with leather chaff protectors and a strip of heavily reinforced Odessy fabric to go along the entire length of the awning.  Using Velcro, we sewed and installed two removable side curtains as well, all within the first week then started re-cutting the old awning to make a new tight fitting cockpit cover designed by Jim to keep rain out of the cockpit while we go back to Canada this summer.  Very custom work for sure with a fair bit of head scratching as we pondered each step.  We worked 13 out of 14 days, averaging 8 hours a day.  We have a bit more sewing to finish the projects but will now have to sew them down below on Falcon.  We are relaxing for a couple of days before cleaning the boat top to bottom in preparation for leaving the docks.

The sun awning protects the cockpit from sun and helps to
keep below decks cool.  Two side panels are attached with
velco and can be moved from side to side as needed.

Marina Fonatur is a great little marina with exceptional staff. The place is very clean and has a nice cruisers lounge with WIFI as well as a little roof top swimming pool.

Not large but on a warm day it sure was nice!

Marina Mazatlan next door and malecon around the waterfront

There are even a few pets around.  Crocky, the shorthaired marina cat greets me every morning when I go for a walk.  Lulu, a young thin lab always wants to play with Crocky, who will have nothing to do with that!  Then there are three or four iguanas that sun themselves around the marina all day.

Our dock iguana

Our rock iguana

The two cleaning ladies who worked tirelessly
to keep the marina clean and tidy every day.

Taken from our stern at dock, a warm but cloudy evening at sunset.

 

In addition to boat projects we’re trying to pace ourselves and went out for a fun dinner on Saturday evening with four other cruising couples we met here at the marina.   There are about five restaurants within easy walking distance of the marina and we were very impressed with the thin crust pizzas we ordered.

 

The motley crew having pizza

Last Sunday afternoon we bused to Old Town to hike to the second tallest manned lighthouse in the world called El Faro.  It was a beautiful breezy afternoon hiking up the switchback path that wound around the hill.  We were rewarded with a spectacular view of the city and surrounding countryside and harbour areas.

 



El Faro lighthouse at the top of the hill



View north along the waterfront of Mazatlan

View southeast of Mazatlan



Yes - there is a spring!  New buds on this tree prove it.

No shortage of shoreline to hike around

 



The 'guard dog' staying in the shade, El Faro Lighthouse

En route back to town we stopped by a sushi restaurant that was very popular with the locals and the food was great.  Even better…I didn’t have to cook dinner again!

After six weeks we've reflected on our stay...We've managed to find our way around both the Marina District and downtown without getting too lost.

The "Gold Zone" with loads of hotels and shops

Souvenir and tourist stores crammed in everywhere

We moored in a high end resort and enjoyed the extra amenities like a Jacuzzi and heated pool.  We had some delicious meals out.  Some perched on metal benches beside a busy street eating fresh fish tacos and others sitting in comfy rattan chairs on cool shaded patios under palm trees and hanging plants.  We witnessed first-hand how crazy the drivers can be… and noted that we never saw an automobile accident!  No one honked their horn or got impatient.   We watched a round-about with chaotic traffic merging from five different directions…and only one stop sign….but it worked!

 

Mazatlan locals we encountered were, with few exceptions, patient, kind, and helpful and on many occasions we received amazing customer service.  In fact Mexicans could teach customer service lesson!  The other day we walked into a small chandlery, Punto Marino, not far from Marina Fonatur.  We asked if they carried a particular pad eye we needed.  Though Mr. Moreno, the Sales Coordinator, didn’t have any in stock he asked if we could call him later in the day and he would see what he could.  Mr. Moreno then made numerous phone calls, located the pad eyes we needed in another city, researched shipping options and determined that he could get them couriered to us within a few days.  He volunteered to do this, probably knowing that the cost would be prohibitive (and it was), but he did it anyway instead of just saying no to the gringos who spoke very little Spanish.  Now that’s customer service!

Fountains and public art were everywhere in Mazatlan

Fishermen and scavenger birds
flying above pangas near "Old Town"

When we were walking past these pangas a friendly fisherman approached us carrying a handful of runny, smelly fish guts, which he generously offered to us so we could feed the birds.  Uhhhh...No thank you!

Clearly families are very important to Mexicans and Mazatlan confirmed this again.  There were lots of parks, playgrounds and water features where families congregated as well as the very popular Carnival parade routes where hundreds of families gathered together for pre-parade pot lucks.  Last Sunday we saw a dozen balloon decorated cars getting ready for a small parade.  We didn’t quite know what the tiny parade was all about but, judging by the little girls dressed like princesses perched on the roofs of the cars, we gather it was related to a children’s beauty contest.

Note the little girl on the roof!

Another contestant gets ready

Though this isn’t something that Jim and I personally agree with, we couldn’t help but be amazed at how many families turned out en mass to support those little kids.  Some cars had accompanying pickup trucks also decorated and filled with teens wearing ‘princess team’ colours.  Some cars had banners strung across the hoods declaring their contestant.  We lingered close by, absorbing the family atmosphere before moving on.

Throughout Mexico we were amazed at how lax the Mexicans were when it came to construction and site safety.  Our experiences ranged from seeing dozens of overhanging massive houses squished together to walking up a winding staircases without guardrails that was perched on top of a rock outcropping that was perched over the ocean.

The malecon and cliff houses beyond



Malecon heading south

Note the double handrails..until the bottom! Careful on that corner!

View after walking up those steps

Teens jumping off the cliffs below our perch

Same number of teens swimming back to shore to do it again.

Have we felt safe in Mazatlan?  Absolutely!  This marina has a gate manned by a friendly guard on duty 24/7.  They patrol the area throughout the evening and night.  Though we seldom heard a siren we saw hundreds of police cars and trucks with lights flashing.  Their presence was everywhere and accepted by everyone.  During Carnival a dozen federal police helicopters flew above the crowds.

Federal police buzzing Carnival parade route

Malls employed security guards with automatic rifles who stood casually outside the main doors.  Security was ramped up even more during Carnival where hundreds of military personnel walked the streets while tens of thousands enjoyed the festivities.  Though there were dozens of beer vendors along the evening parade route we never saw anyone drunk or disorderly like we would at events and festivals in Canada.

We wandered down quiet streets before being absorbed in the crowded public market.  We took a couple of mystery bus trips by getting on the wrong bus and going into distant neighbourhoods populated by the working class families.  We pondered why there were so many abandoned buildings decaying next to successful massive hotels.  We just never knew what we would find!

We'll miss our view from our slip at Marina Fonatur

In a couple of days we’ll be leaving Mazatlan for Isla Isabel, which is 94 nautical miles south.  It’s part of the marine park system and features hundreds of species of birds.  From there we sail to the town of San Blas and points further south.  We’re looking forward to getting back to life under sail and at anchor but we leave with great memories of our time in Mazatlan.  Until next time…  

Tricia and Jim