April 24, 2014  Isla Isabela, Mexico

We’ve been on the move since leaving Mazatlan a couple of weeks ago. 

Mazatlan at dusk from the anchorage at Stone Island

After spending two nights at anchor in the harbour south of Mazatlan we headed for Isla Isabela, a National Wildlife Preserve approximately 18 miles off the Mexican coast.  This small island, visited by Jacques Cousteau 39 years ago, is world renowned for its blue footed booby colony as well as the majestic frigates and other seabird species.

Dolphins playing in our bow wake en route to Isla Isabela

Falcon VII at anchor off of Las Monas spires

We anchored off of Las Monas rock spires for four days enjoying the wonderful warm water where I cooled off with a daily swim. We had time to snorkel along the reefs and enjoyed the fantastic birdlife.  The day after we anchored Rob and Debra on Avant arrived from San Blas en route to the Sea of Cortez.  Through email we had been tracking each other with the hopes of connecting again, having not been together since New Year’s Eve in La Paz.  Our visit was too short but we’ll see them in Vancouver this summer.

Avant and Falcon resting at anchor off of Las Monas

Isla Isabela is a popular destination for those heading north or south as it is only 81 miles from Mazatlan, a day sail away to the north, and only 40 miles away from San Blas to the south.  Another cruising boat, Hotel California, arrived towards evening.  We met Pam and Rick in LaPaz back in December but hadn’t seen them since.  The next morning the six of us decided to go to shore together to explore the island.

Las Monas Islands at dawn

Seabirds perched like sentries on the pinnacles

A small fishing camp was perched on the shore of the south anchorage with a dozen rustic houses squeezed tightly together.  Fishing pangas took up most of the rocky beach as fishermen cleaned and mended nets and unloaded their catch.  We pulled up our dinghies and set off on one of the trails that led behind the camp and into bird territory.

Early morning at the busy fishing camp

Immediately we found huge frigates perched in trees above us, aware of our movement but unperturbed.  The island was home to blue footed boobies, red footed boobies, brown footed boobies, brown pelicans, sooty terns, Heerman’s gulls, and brown noddies.  In addition to spotting hundreds of birds we passed by lots of bold iguanas as they sunned themselves and little lizards as they scurried out of our way.

Puffed up male frigate taking its turn on the next

You can look but don't you come near my baby!

Well camouflaged lizards ranged in size and colouring

One of many iguanas we encountered, about 2 feet long

The island was only a mile or so in length and a gentle climb led to a trail through the sparse forest then onto an open stretch along the eastern shoreline.  As this island is an important bird sanctuary it has continued to attract researchers since Jacque Cousteau first introduced it to the rest of the world.  The formerly abandoned research station is once again in use with its covered outdoor space being utilized to house researchers’ perched tents.  On the east side of the island another smaller research camp was nestled in the bush close to the booby colonies.

Heerman's gull

We were very fortunate at having arrived at nesting time.  We kept our distance but captured on film a few fuzzy frigate babies still in their nests in trees above us.  Further along the trail boobies nested on the ground and were quite vocal as we cautiously passed.  They were just hatching near other nests where gulls kept a careful eye on us as we tiptoed by their unhatched speckled eggs.

Heerman's gulls guarding their speckled eggs

Blue footed booby

Brown footed boobies - male in front, female behind

None of the chicks were flying yet

A shallow booby nest in the gravel and dirt  

The north shore was rugged but beautiful and from there we returned inland through a prehistoric looking forest with frigates watching our every move.  How fortunate we are to have something like this island still in existence!

North shore - Punta Rocosa

Can't get a bunch of cruisers to pose for anything!

After our three hour hike we all returned to our boats for a siesta in the heat of the day but Jim and I decided to take a few school supplies and bubbles back to the fish camp.  It was Easter break and a dozen kids were hanging around the beach and using the jagged rock outcroppings as their diving platform.  When we arrived with the school supplies and bubbles the language barrier made no difference. 

Happy kids with their bags of school supplies and bubbles

We knew that the Mom we met was most appreciative and the boys on the rocks were clapping their hands and laughing when we returned by dingy with another bottle of bubbles.  We left the bay feeling good about our little effort and are glad that many other cruisers do the same.

The boys hanging out - see the mid air jumper to the right?

On Good Friday we set sail for the coastline and enjoyed a beautiful spinnaker run the whole way, anchoring in Matanchen Bay just south of the estuary that led to the San Blas marina.  Easter is a big deal in Mexico with an entire week, called Samana Santa, set aside as time off from work and school.  It is a time when families flock to the sandy beaches in both Matachen and Chacala to the south.  We arrived on Good Friday so the 3 mile long beach was full of families. 

Trish diving into glorious warm water of Ensenada de Matanchen 

We dinghied to shore and manoeuvred around loads of kids and parents enjoying themselves in the water.  I wish I had my camera with me!  A half dozen thatch roofed restaurants lined the beach, each with expanded covered outdoor seating with tables set up everywhere to accommodate the three generations enjoying Easter together.  Grandmas crocheting, teens walking the shoreline together, little kids making sand castles and parents involved with it all.  In between the restaurants were sections of beach where other families gathered. Cars and trucks were parked next to the beach sticking out of bushes, many with blasting music, which didn’t seem to bother anyone.  A dirt road ran along the length of beach on the other side of the restaurants where merchants tried to sell everything from bathing suits to beach balls.  As well, a handful of enterprising locals wandered throughout the area with armloads of beaded necklaces and bags of plastic beach toys for sale.  We were serenaded by a handsome young man, aged around 20, who played the guitar beautifully.  This, in itself was a treat, but the fact that one arm was much shorter than the other, ending around the elbow with five tiny toe-like fingers, made it even more amazing.  That’s one of the things we love about the Mexicans. They never seem to dwell on their poverty or circumstances but figure out a way to survive with dignity and a smile.

On Easter Sunday morning I was making breakfast when I heard someone holler “Falcon VII are you up?”  I looked out to see Alison and Randall on Tregoning arriving at the anchorage.  They were heading north from Chacala and made the run at dawn. We have been cruising off and on with Tregoning since leaving Neah Bay in Washington State, keeping in touch via email.

Randall and Alison on Tregoning

We were thrilled to see them and happily accepted their invitation for an Easter potluck on their boat.  We had noticed another boat when it anchored the night before but didn’t realize it was Al and Lindy on Enchante.  They had been buddy boating with Randall and Alison and even took a side trip to Guadalajara together a few weeks before.

Al and Lindy from Enchante

The six of us had a great time catching up and enjoying a sushi and chicken potluck dinner together before saying a fond farewell.

Happy Easter!

The next day Tregoning left before dawn heading for Isla Isabela and we departed for San Blas, leaving Al and Linda working on boat projects.  What a great way to spend Easter.  I’ll continue San Blas on the next blog entry….