Monday 29 August 2016

3,000 MILES COMPLETED!

Picturesque Cape Flattery, a few short miles north of Makah Bay, marked the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait and on Monday, August 8th we set out at dawn and headed towards Tatoosh Island and the unique headland of Cape Flattery, turning right into Juan de Fuca Strait.

Approaching Tatoosh Island and Juan de Fuca Strait.

Rugged west coast views greeted us everywhere.
Though we weren’t quite home, we high fived and hugged each other after we anchored in Neah Bay. Surprisingly, neither of us had any overwhelming feelings though we were both very happy at having made this significant accomplishment.

Cape Flattery...low mist and haze swirled around the base of the rock.


It was July 2011 when we first set our goal to cruise to Mexico and maybe beyond. Two years from initial planning and working on boat projects before three years of reaping the benefits and experiencing our wonderous adventures on and off the water.

After a couple of very quiet days in Neah Bay we sailed to Port Angeles.  The sky was blue with wispy clouds and an afternoon breeze to cool things down.   Leaving Neah Bay and heading for Port Angeles signaled a couple of significant changes.  Gone were the night passages and the swells were lessening.

Daily fog flowing into Neah Bay
The Olympic Mountains loomed above thick forested slopes. Sadly, the once year round snow capped mountains were almost bare. There was a familiar crispness in the air that felt fresh and alive.




As we neared Port Angeles mid afternoon we saw a mirage along the shoreline to the north.  In the radiating heat of summer, Victoria’s distant skyline was stretched and elongated as heat waves shimmered above the ocean’s surface. That’s when I realized I wasn’t ready to go back across the border yet.  Jim felt the same way.


Mount Baker towered above the clouds to the east and more protected waters beckoned us to keep travelling towards the San Juan Islands. We sailed gently east to Sequim’s well protected harbour for one night before crossing a lumpy Juan de Fuca Strait and heading into the San Juan Islands, 25 miles to the north.

Light house on spit near Sequim, Wa.


Back in 'our' islands.
The American San Juan Islands and Canadian Gulf Islands are one archipelago, except for the invisible border line dividing them. They’re both amazingly picturesque treasures of the Pacific Northwest with hundreds of small protected anchorages scattered amongst the dozens of islands that offer so much to coastal cruisers.  Though we absolutely loved cruising in Mexico, this is different.

Washington State Ferry goes into the San Juans


The treed cliff side hides four houses on Lopez Island
Reflections of the evening sun
These are our cruising grounds, the coastline with so many cruising memories, beaches where we watched spectacular sunsets, passages where we waving at kayakers and fellow cruisers, anchorages where we silently spied on a heron perched fishing for dinner.




Full moon on Lopez Island
We began cruising the southern bays of Lopez Island then worked our way to horseshoe-shaped Orcas Island before turning east towards Mount Baker and mooring in the Town of Anacortes for an evening before venturing up the eastern side of San Juan Island where we spotted two pods of orca whales.


We anchored near Garrison Bay for three nights during the hottest summer weather.  I wanted to revisit Garrison Bay where the historic English Camp stood.  There were still a few buildings open to the public and well manicured gardens but it was too hot to walk up to the top of Mount Young.

The gardens at the English Fort, Garrison Bay - San Juan Island
These are the colours we love.
Crabbing was popular in Wescott Bay where dozens of recreational traps cluttered the narrow channel.  After a few hours at anchor we were conscious of the constant drone from seaplanes and fishing runabouts zooming across Westcott Bay.  No more quiet secluded anchorages for us!  Kids splashed and played while others meandered through the forest near the old English Fort.

After a week in the San Juan Islands we both began to shift gears from being full time cruisers working our way home to almost being home.  We both felt emotional while we peered into the crystal ball to see what our next step entailed.



We cleared into Canada in Sidney on Sunday, August 22nd and tied up at North Saanich Marina.  Our log registered 3,000 just outside the docks.  How's that for amazing!  It was an extremely hectic week, but one made tolerable when we could come back to Falcon's view of Tsehum Harbour.

Our trip log clicked on 3000 just outside Tsehum Harbour, Sidney, BC.
Tsehum Harbour - View from Falcon at dawn

Weekly dinghy races and daily sailing camps were run to watch.
Our immediate plans include cruising to Ladysmith, the Sunshine Coast and Vancouver during September then mooring back to the Inner Harbour in Victoria for the winter months. Then what?  We’re not sure.

Today we're anchored off of Russell Island only 45 minutes from Sidney and very near to Salt Spring Island.  This was our starting point on August 20, 2016.  We came here from Sidney for two days to rest before heading south to start our Mexican adventure. So this feels like the ending point to me.

Russell Island, with fog looming in the background.
In our home waters again.
In fact, I openly wept when we turned to starboard and I saw the anchorage for the first time in over three years.  I didn’t realize how much I missed being here!  It represents peace and serenity today as I reflect on the last three years. So much has happened including the birth of our beautiful grandson and the death of my amazing mom.

One of the things I’m most proud of is my increased confidence in my skills as a cruiser.  I can handle night watches without thinking about calling Jim for a thing.  I can navigate successfully and handle the sails by myself when necessary.  I can launch the dinghy alone and anchor in any adverse conditions Mother Nature can throw at me.  But I am only one half of the Bowen team, the Falconians as our friends Tom and Bobbi like to call us.

We Falconians stick together.  We’re a team.  I’ve learned to be more flexible and easy going and that compromise is positive. We can work out answers to challenges. I’ve re-affirmed my love to Jim, who is with me every step of this journey called life.  Without his constant love, care and support I don’t think I would have done this trip.  His attention to small details, his ear for strange sounds in the night and his finely honed dish drying skills all helped to make our passages as easy and safe as possible.  I love our time together, whether it’s playing Scrabble in the evening or anchoring in 30 knots of wind in a rolly anchorage.  We did it together and I am forever grateful.

Jim’s final thoughts…
It’s August 29, early afternoon.  We’re anchored off the rocky shores of Russell Island, just north of Sidney.  I’m sitting in the cockpit - warm from the sun’s rays streaming down on us out of the clear blue sky.

I just thought to myself as I looked across Falcon’s bow toward luscious green hills and sparkling blue water, “Wow! This is paradise.”

What I have learned in the past three years and 9,000 miles is that paradise can be wherever I am. Yes, certainly white sand beaches, turquoise waters and palm fronds waving in the breeze and yes, the beauty which surrounds me as I type this.  But also, if I am careful to look closely enough to see what is there - paradise can be the moment I am in right now.

The thing that I am the most thankful for is that I got to do this trip with the perfect partner. There is only one thing better than being in paradise, and that is to be in paradise with someone as incredible as Trish. We spend almost literally all of our time together and yet 99 point something percent of the time, things go along with complete harmony. Without Trish’s contribution, I would have had none of these amazing adventures.  From day one with us, it’s always been 50/50 - we each contribute half to achieve our goals.  So Thank You Trish, I love you.

So - that’s my short wrap up for our (Trish’s mostly) blog.  Plans and ideas for our next adventures are rolling around in both our heads, but for now we are heading north till Oct. 1 when we return to the inner harbour in Victoria.



Peace,

Jim and Tricia Bowen
S/V Falcon VII


2 comments:

  1. Missed you by a few days. We're now at Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes. Spent 1 day in Friday Harbor. Settling in to our new home and anxious to see a few anchorages in this Paradise before winter sets in
    Keep in touch please

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  2. WELCOME HOME! It is soooo beautiful here! (Had to sail to Mexico to truly appreciate it.) Mexico was great but cruising in BC, for us, is better.

    Cheers,
    David & Michelle
    SV Pelagia
    sailing-pelagia.blogspot.ca

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