BETWEEN A ROCK AND A SOFT PLACE

Travelling north with Doug and Martha was something Jim and I really enjoyed since our friendship over the last few years had solidified so well.  Other friends of theirs’s, Gay and Brad on Abby Normal we already in the islands cruising.

We all met up in Los Gatos and the six of us spent the next couple of weeks together.  This was our second time visiting Los Gatos.  Last year we bought fresh lobster from the fishermen.  This year the only fishermen we saw were cutting up sharks and hauling them away in the back of a pick up truck.

During the days we hiked, cruised and sailed.  In the evenings, we often got together for cards after dinner since it was easier than organizing a meal for four or six.  We even managed a couple of beach fires, thanks for Jim, who went to shore ahead of everyone else to collect firewood and get it started.

Los Gatos' crazy moon-like landscape

After a few days waiting for a weather window we left Puerto Escondido and cruised an easy three hours north to Coronados Island just off of Loreto, which would be our most northern anchorage on this trip.   We had enjoyed Coronados in 2014 and 2015 and were happy to return.

Yikes! The hikes!  We did 7 hikes in two weeks of cruising with Doug and Martha. The almost 5 hour hike to the top and back of Coronados Island’s extinct volcano was the most arduous hike again this year.

We dinghied to the beach on the south side around 8:00 a.m. to avoid the afternoon heat.

Coronados Island from our anchorage at the southern end.
The extinct volcano is over 900 ft high.

Thea, Abby Normal and Falcon VII at anchor, early morning at
Coronados Island so we could start our hike before it was too hot.

Terrain started with a long, hot white sand trail lined wih shells and coral.
It ran along the desert then cut up and across the trecherous
jagged boulder section.

We wore our hiking boots and each footstep was carefully placed.

We tried to keep track of the trail, barely distinguishable from the
surrounding obsidian and lava rocks, by following piled rocks or
 cairns erected by other hikers.  

This part was very slow going but we kept at it and eventually started

 the third phase of the climb, right up a steep gravelly slope that

 seemed to go on forever. Each footstep tossed fine red dust into
 the air  and sent pea size gravel tumbling down the slope.  

We were all determined to make it to the summit but it was a push!   

Next day we took the dinghy to that small white
sandy beach at the far end of the hook.

Just after we reached the summit we were joined by a couple who were staying in Loreto. They had come over to the island via panga for the hike.  We always have a day pack with 3 litres of water, a first aid kit, tp, snacks and a hand held radio.  They had nothing! Martha and Doug gave them a drink of water before they headed back down the slippery slope ahead of us. I think they were probably pretty dehydrated by the time they got back to the panga.

We stayed up there for a good half hour break before we began our slow descent back to the beach where we paddled our hot, sore feet in the cool water.

Jim and his new prickly best friend.
We're only half way down!
My feet are killing me!
How much farther!

Even climbing back onboard Falcon seemed like an extreme effort!  The rest of the day was spent resting and recovering by all of us!  Nothing like an extreme hike to remind me that I’m over 60 now!!!

The following morning Jim and I took speed run along the south shore the
 into a “C” shaped bay where we walked along a deserted white sand beach
with turquoise waters.

We had a different view of the mountain we climbed the day before. 

Both of us stood in awe of the place we were in, knowing that we would
soon be returning to La Paz and would likely never visit Coronados again
or any of the other anchorages since we were taking Falco VII back to BC.

That evening the six of us shared a campfire and dinner consisting
 of crab and artichoke heart dip and chips, Caesar salad, chicken fajitas. 

Dusk looking towards Loreto six miles away.

 Just after dark we had a visitor join us…a hermit crab climbing one of the rocks near the glow of our fire.  One of our cruising books talked about having a pet hermit crab on board their boat for a few days.  They named it Peppe.  I named our little friend Peppe II in his honour!

Peppe II

Tricia and Jim Bowen
S/V Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com