WHO DOESN'T LIKE A PARADE!

While working on boat projects we sometimes like distractions to take us away for a while.  Last week was one of those times.

The parade began after cinnamon buns at Pat and Don's home. 

We were listening to the morning net at 8:30 last Wednesday when there was an invitation put out there for cruisers to visit Pat and Don at Casa Fresco in Jarretaderas for morning coffee and before taking in an annual local parade celebrating the Mexican equivalent of Independence Day in the US.  Jim and I thought it sounds like a fun excursion so we called for more details and were us up and off Falcon VII before 8:00 the next morning.  After a 30 minute bus ride on the highway we hopped off and started walking down a dusty off ramp towards the agricultural community of Jarretaderas.  It appeared to be a working class village with few items to draw tourists, yet only about 15 minutes from the wealthy tourist community of Nuevo Vallarta.

We found Pat and Don’s home easily, enjoying the cobblestone streets, checking out different shops and becoming familiar with our surroundings.  Their plaster home was duplexed with a permanent tenant upstairs.  They lived on the main floor where a lovely garden with lots of lofty palms and shrubs created much needed shade.  Their one bedroom and den home had a beautiful outdoor space off the kitchen with a large round table and chairs awaiting us.  Another couple from the Nuevo Vallarta Marina joined us and all six very much liked the fresh cinnamon buns made by a Mexican friend of Pat and Don’s that lived locally.  He was a trained baker who could only afford to bake in his small kitchen.  He sold his fresh baked goods elsewhere but he no longer had a working vehicle to make deliveries.  Through Pat and Don he connected with another Mexican fellow who had a motorcycle and needed to make some extra money to take care of his sick infant.  The two of them formed win/win partnership that was working out well.  Pat and Don are amazing people and really seem drawn to helping those less fortunate in their part time town.  We understand the baker has now expanded deliveries to include various gluten free products, selling them at a public market frequented by touristas.  We wish them luck in their new endeavour.

After enjoying our morning treats we all wandered towards the red and white painted town square where clusters of locals were gathering for the parade.

A sister...

And her brother prepare for the parade

This is a juice jug,made out of a gord and pop bottle.  Notice the 'small'
machete cutting up passion fruit.

This little guy was too small for his 'ammo'. When I arrived the two belts had
just slithered down to his ankles.

The kindergarten hombres led the way

Proud moms waited patiently while the kids, kindergarten to 12 years old, started getting ready for the big parade.  As this was a holiday celebrating the Mexican revolution the theme carried on in the parade costumes.  We loved the 14 minute long parade that featured the cutest little kids with fake mustaches to the beautiful horses ridden by kids wearing colourful traditional Mexican costumes and looking so proud.

Notice the tethers to keep the kids together.

Maybe next year she'll join her big brothers and sisters in the parade.

We ended our morning with a Mexican breakfast at a tarp covered rustic outdoor restaurant close to Casa Fresco.  The farm fresh eggs were delicious in my cheese omelet and Jim loved his ouevos ranchero and refried beans.  The cook used a press to produce fresh tortillas which were browned on the grill then served seaming hot.  Our tasty meals were only $4.00 each!

Towards noon Don dropped us off at an underpass where we grabbed a local bus back to La Cruz.  It was a great morning and a good distraction from our job list.

We are leaving La Cruz on Monday morning, heading towards Mazatlan and on to La Paz.  We'll miss so much about the marina and our summer friends but new adventures await us!

More later…

Tricia and Jim Bowen
Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com

SOLO DINNER IN LA CRUZ

Today I want to paint you a picture with words as I didn’t carry my camera ....

When I was in my 30’s I used to travel as part of my job with Tourism British Columbia.  I facilitated week long travel counselling courses throughout the province, training staff on how to help tourists enjoy their town and surroundings.  My travels took me across the province of British Columbia from Dawson Creek to Nelson and Prince Rupert to Campbell River, to name a few.  I always took a novel with me on those trips, read especially when I ate dinner out by myself.  I actually enjoyed eating a good meal out and reading leisurely.

Last Saturday night Jim and I were supposed to have dinner out together but Jim wasn’t feeling well so I decided to go to Charlie’s Place by myself.  I left Falcon VII just as the sun was setting, walking west along the docks as I watched the sky turn from vibrant pink and peach to somber mauve and eventually smoky blue. I walked around the malecon enjoying the slight cool breeze as I made my way towards an open house at PV Sails.  After a few minutes of connecting with friends I continued my walk to the restaurant, carefully stepping on the uneven cobblestones as the sky dimmed and stars appeared.  Since La Cruz is a village, the streets weren’t all lit up like in a city.  A couple of passing vehicles illuminated the sidewalk until I encountered an intersection with a street light where I turned and meandered another block until the faint cheering of fans at a televised football game indicated I had arrived.

Dawn took this photo of me enjoying my ribs while reading.

Charlie’s Place is run by Jim and Melinda while their son, Charlie the chef, creates the thin crust pizzas, unusual salads and other delicious delights.  The building features a kitchen and patio on the main floor with a big wood burning pizza oven then the restaurant/bar seating for 40 upstairs.  We’ve eaten there a few times and our good friend, Dawn, is now waitressing for Jim and Melinda.   Melinda suggested I join a table of cruisers I hadn’t met before.  I approached and sat down but they really wanted to watch the football game and I really wanted to read my book so I politely excused myself and headed to a smaller out of the way table surrounded by climbing bougainvillea blooms where a fluffy calico Persian cat was stretched out along the ledge.

Dawn brought me a huge limonada, made with freshly squeezed limes, Jim’s special sugar cane syrup and mineral water.  I sipped the tangy drink while perusing the menu where the baby back ribs jumped out at me from the dozen or so options.   Dawn hurried my order in to Charlie while I read my book and petted the purring feline.  It wasn’t long before she returned carrying a hot plate filled with juicy ribs cooked a secret barbeque sauce, homemade baked beans, finely chopped coleslaw and a slice of ripe watermelon.  Dawn chuckled when she came by to check on things and caught me sitting back with my eyes closed and a subtle smile on my face - in pure joy as I let the first tender morsel release its smoky flavour into my mouth.  I savoured every mouthful of that delicious meal and followed it up with a nice cup of steaming black tea.

Charlie popped upstairs from his kitchen to see how the guests were enjoying their dinners and I was able to thank him personally.  He returned to his kitchen with a big smile on his face to make a mushroom flat crust pizza for me to take home to Jim.

Eventually I paid my bill and waved good bye to Jim, Charlie and Melinda, petting Blue the dog and the contented cats before giving a hug goodnight to Dawn.  I had a quiet stroll along the cobblestone streets where families sat outside on plastic chairs watching Spanish programs on boxy old tv’s.  Many front doors were open to the sidewalk so any breeze could go right through.  One cinder block home even had a Christmas tree perched in the living room corner!  It had twinkling lights, lots of glitter and an angel perched on top. I shook my head, amazed that someone had a tree up more than four weeks before Christmas.

As I wandered along the now familiar narrow streets I heard the sound of Philo’s Mexican Shuffle Band playing an early set.  Closer to the marina, Funkswagen played soft rock at Gecko Rojo’s where gringos were listening to another rendition of the Eagles “Desperado”.  I waved at the security guards as I entered the marina walkway towards the malecon and our dock.  While I looked out over ‘our’ marina I saw bursts of colourful, sparkling fireworks explode in the cloudless sky over Bucerias, three miles to the east.

Jim was fast asleep when I returned so I quietly put the pizza in the fridge, knowing how much he would enjoy it in the morning.XXXXAll in all, a wonderful evening in La Cruz including precious time to read my mystery novel.  Another memento for the memory book of our time here in La Cruz de Huantcaxtle.

Tricia and Jim Bowen
S/V Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com

Boatyards can make life interesting!

Even during our adventures cruising in Mexico we still face times when the bottom line is … maintenance must be done!  Over the last 10 days we were hauled out at the La Cruz Marina Boat Yard.  While we worked inside on redoing plumbing hoses (a VERY crappy job!), our beautiful boat was getting new bottom paint and the hull buffed and waxed.  

The boatyard crew, overseen by Peter Vargas, treated Falcon VII very well!  We were impressed with their efforts and efficiency, as well as their courteous conduct.  In fact, last Saturday Jim and I were invited to join Peter and his crew while they casually chowed down on a huge pot of homemade seafood soup and crispy tostadas. There were fresh chunks of tuna, pieces of crab, lobster and prawns all simmering in a spicy tomato based soup and it was delicious.  Their work week is an exhausting six days a week, 12 hours a day.  Each Saturday Peter treats them all to some sort of homemade lunch as one way of saying thanks for their work. Pretty nice idea!

Since we weren’t permitted to stay in the boatyard we moved to shore and thoroughly enjoyed our home away from home.  Local restaurateur, Philo Hayward, not only runs Philo’s Bar but also owns Philo’s Rest Estate and Vacation Rentals.   His spouse, Maria just finished renovating the property next door to Philo’s Bar for vacation rental.  Her interior decorating skills resulted in two comfortable new rental units - an upstairs one bedroom suite and a downstairs studio apartment, which featured a good sized kitchen/eating area separate from a cheerful bedroom and walk in shower style bathroom. Beyond the bedroom was our own cozy hidden garden.

These fan palms in our garden were about 50 ft tall!

The weekly cost was only slightly more than our two nights at “Simply Baku” in July!  If you are looking for a bargain in La Cruz contact Maria – maria@philosrealestatelacruz.com.  Ph 52 329 295-6011 (office) or 52 322 120-3009 (cell).  It also helps if you like 70’s rock n roll because Philo’s Bar plays live music a few times weekly with various Mexican and gringo bands filling the little stage... and you get to hear the sets for free from the other side of the brick wall!

Falcon was launched Monday and we motored her back to our slip immediately but opted to stay on land for a couple of extra days because of various projects underway.  Skies were overcast for a few days and it poured all day on Tuesday so we fled the water covered cobblestone streets of La Cruz and took a bus ride into Nuevo Vallarta to pick up some hose we needed to finish off the plumbing. The rain didn't let up for well over 24 hours, resulting in some minor flooding, especially on the lateral roads next to the highway.  At times it felt like we were motoring through a river!

But we never saw a car stalled and no one slowed down due to weather conditions! Thank goodness we still have our BC umbrellas because we sure needed them. Thankfully temperatures dropped considerably with the cloud cover.  It was either overcast or raining for the better part of the week, one last hurrah before the drier winter conditions prevailed.

With Falcon out of the water for a few days we also had a bit of time to walk around more of La Cruz, exploring the other side of the highway. These photos show just how lush the surrounding hills are.

View towards the marina from up the hill across from the main highway.

Wednesday's public market where the locals shop.  No arts and crafts here.
You can buy pots and pans, plastic bowls, inexpensive toys, fruits and veggies though.

Our marina neighbourhood is changing.  More and more cruisers are returning from their months away and our small, close group of summer liveaboards have scattered.  One couple drove back to the States to sell their car before visiting family in Brazil then coming back to La Cruz to begin their trip towards Panama.  Two of the guys flew to the Caribbean to pick up a recently purchased catamaran while their wives flew to Panama City to help bring “Sweetie” through the Panama Canal.  Others are going back to anchor off of La Cruz during the busy and expensive tourist season and we are bucking the trend by heading north into the Sea of Cortes again.

As I write this our cabin space is crowded with sail bags piled around me, containers of tools cover the settee, coiled plumbing hoses sit on top of our large tool boxes resembling cobras ready to pounce, our aft cabin cushions are wedged upright near the galley and you can’t even see into our forward head (toilet) because all our cockpit seating cushions are piled in there along with other cushions and bedding.  Having said that, it will only be a matter of days before we are ready to leave La Cruz.  As I've said before, we leave with mixed feelings but are excited about reconnecting with old friends and actually getting the sails up.  More once that happens.

Until then, keep smiling!

Tricia and Jim Bowen
Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com  

Running into people from our past

You never know who you’ll run into!  Just after arriving in La Cruz in May we reconnected with Chris Bouchard, a part owner in a large cabinet and woodworking company that Jim worked for in the mid 90’s. In fact, they liaised with each other on a couple of projects – but mostly over the phone and not in person. We were at the Britannia listening to live music when Chris wandered up to join the musicians on stage and sing a few songs.  Some comment was made about Chris being from Victoria so I went over during a break and introduced myself, Jim standing beside me.  They didn't recognize each other but, after chatting for a few minutes, realized the connection and started talking  about Victoria and other coincidences. Before long Chris’ wife, Cindy, joined in the conversation and it turned out she knew Jim when he worked for KB Design in the early 90’s!  Small world!

Years go by; career paths change; people retire.  Chris and Cindy arrived in La Cruz in 2009 for a sabbatical and just never left!  They are now in the throws of getting their Mexican citizenship so they’ll have dual citizenship.  Far from retired, both are super busy in their new careers.  Chris works in vacation real estate in Puerto Vallarta while Cindy runs their amazing vacation property.  We can actually see their colourful home from our boat!

Cindy and Chris invited us over for coffee and to see their property and we were very impressed! They purchased their large home in La Cruz on the waterfront three years ago and have accomplished amazing things in a very short period of time.  They did major design changes and renovations to create not only a comfortable home for themselves but six exclusive suites for guests.  In addition, they purchased the unusually shaped home next door and tied the two properties together with lush tropical landscaping. They run the two bedroom house as a separate vacation rental as well.  Cindy, an interior designer, used her talents to create an absolutely gorgeous property, complete with infinity pool, Mexican artwork, tasteful decor and beach access.  I’ll say no more but let the pictures speak for themselves.  You can check out their website at:  Villa Amor Del Mar

Enjoy the eye candy!

Now that's a beautiful infinity pool!

Cindy and Chris live on the lower level and rent the rest out, including
the house to the right with the yellow tower and two hearts.

View looking towards the marina...you can almost see Falcon VII!

The anchorage is beginning to get busier now; thunder clouds forming
on the far shore mean probable thunder storm tonight.

The complete house ajacent is colourful, light and airy

This bedroom features a private bathroom and Juliet balcony...

...that overlooks the living room, gardens and ocean beyond

Kitchen, second bedroom and tiled bathroom on the main level.
 A little extra...the only way to access the second floor is by the winding staircase!

Even the ants know how to work together to make things happen.

Chris and Jim with the spectacular pool behind

Pelicano room with mini fridge, coffee, tea, breakfast fixings all included.

Each room is themed of course; see the reflection of the pelicans in the mirror.

View from the roof top deck; Shaded dining area to the right of the pool
where a Sunday meal is shared by guests.

Love the domed roofs next door at a vacation complex.

Tricia and Jim Bowen
S/V Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com

Halloween and Dia de los Muertos in La Cruz

November 4, 2014

We have reached November and things are getting busier in little La Cruz, starting with Halloween.

In Canada and the States Halloween is a huge celebration, almost as big as Christmas.  Mexico not only celebrates Halloween but also Dia de los Muertos, which originated centuries ago in Mexico. This Day of the Dead celebration is held on November 1 and 2 annually in Spanish speaking cultures. The holiday is a blend of pre-Hispanic indigenous beliefs and Spanish Catholic beliefs where people remember and honour those who have passed.  It is considered an important festival and joyous time of celebration.  Being Mexico’s most important holiday, we hear it costs more money to put on than Christmas celebrations.  Often altars are erected in private homes, public squares, churches and restaurants then covered with mementos and photos of those loved ones who have died.  In La Cruz the local restaurants erected their own altars and invited guests to bring something of significance for the display remembering the dead.

The alter at Philo's Restaurant

Notice the photos of loved ones and Dia de Los Muertos skeleton figures.

  On October 31 the local Catholic Church led a procession along the worn cobblestone streets.  The flatbed of an old pickup truck worked well as a platform featuring two older children dressed in religious robes.  They were followed by hundreds of children, many dressed in white.

After the procession made its way around town’s narrow dusty streets the children dispersed and ran home to change into their Halloween costumes.  As the sun set over town the streets came alive with mini witches in pointy hats, gruesome goblins carried treat bags, zombies with fake blood dripping, ghosts that glided by in swirling sheers and more.

Besides Halloween October 31 seemed to be the official start of winter tourist season and the restaurants were filled to capacity with gringo’s, most who brought bags of Halloween candy for the trick or treaters.  The gringo community clearly embraced the tradition of giving candies out at the restaurants.  Often the little ones were too young to walk by themselves so they were packed around by grateful Moms.

Deborah and Jim with a pile of candy between them

Shannon and Bev stopped by Philo's to say hi.

A few of the kids had even managed to say “Happy Halloween” and “Thank you” for the gringos. The words were sometimes a bit stilted and they probably had no idea what they were saying but they did it with big smiles on their faces, often with proud Mamas standing right behind them.  Jim, Deborah Jackson from Cyclades and I had dinner at Philo’s Bar and Restaurant and enjoyed the super busy, noisy evening immensely.

On Saturday evening November 1 the first of two processions walked along the marina waterfront where more altars were erected.  Unfortunately we were settling into our land accommodation so we missed it but we gather from friends who attended that it was a very emotional ceremony.   We're staying on land as we hauled Falcon out for a paint job and annual maintenance.

On Sunday we visited the altars that had been set up near the waterfront.  They were erected in a small park near the first Sunday market of the season.

The park area was surrounded by dozens of tables featuring skilled craftsmen, cooks, bakers, jewelers, weavers, beaders,etc.

Shannon and Deborah enjoying refreshing veggie and fruit juices

This was the first Sunday market since May and we were very excited about the beautiful handmade rug we purchased, along with a brightly painted pottery bowl, take out homemade vanilla yogurt, and a stunning ammonite fossil necklace that was crafted while I waited.  These works of art will adorn some future land based home and remind us of our summer in La Cruz.

These talented musicians provided background music

A busload of tourists were dropped off for the market.  

The temperatures in La Cruz are just beginning to drop to a slightly more comfortable mid 80’s and we're able to get out and walk at our normal pace without feeling too burned out.  We are staying in a great little newly renovated studio apartment next to Philo's Restaurant while Falcon is out of the water at the local boat yard. We have so much room! We’re glad of the slightly cooler temperatures as we do have some out of the water maintenance to do between now and Sunday.  We always enjoy the walk between town and the boat yard while we wander along the cobblestones admiring the creative use of paint.

Maybe they got a great deal on the colour?

A private garden with massive palms towering everything.

This is one of the most well maintained homes in town.
Lots of tile work on both street fronts.

Next blog update will be after we leave Banderas Bay and start our northern winter journey back to the Sea of Cortez.  More then….

Happy November from Tricia and Jim Bowen
Falcon VII
email: tandjbowen13@gmail.com