January 26, 2014  Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido is a very well protected anchorage with two small marinas nestled in the inner bay. 

Dawn at Puerto Escondido

They call this view of Puerto Escondido
 "The Windows" facing north

Puerto Escondido is nestled under the watchful
eye of Sierra de la Gigianta

Our guide books spoke of a pool and shore facilities, hotels, restaurants, etc. but once again the promotional information was much more than reality.  Government built, Marina Fontaur sits in the middle of a flat, dry region with extremely wide unused roadways lined with palm trees and lighting running along it up to the main road. 

The main road, guarded 24/7, from the marina to
the main road, then 20 minutes to the right to
reach the Highway 1 intersection

Cinderblock townhouses crumbling away
next to the marina.  Dozens of vacant lots nearby.

Appearance is everything, even if the toilets leak!

To the left and right of the roadways are watered plants but beyond those plants there’s nothing but scrub and cacti.  The townhouse and housing development dreamed up to entice tourists to come to Puerto Escondido never got built.  Some cinderblock townhouses were started and are now crumbling slowly away, as is the infrastructure at the marina where maintenance has been sketchy at best.  Having said that, the staff are friendly and the rooftop restaurant overlooking the water makes great limonada.  As I write this there is a scurry of activity from about 20 workers who are playing catch up on outdoor maintenance and fixing the leaky ceilings in the showers, washrooms, etc. because the ‘boss’ is coming in a week.

On Thursday the four of us decided to explore the town of Loreto by road instead of by boat.  We had to walk 30 minutes to the main road then wait 45 minutes for the north bound bus.  We were glad this was not a super hot day! 

Waiting for the north-bound bus to Loreto

Only Highway 1 goes north and south on the Baja

Loreto was a sleepy little town where most of the businesses were tourist related…but there were few tourists that we could see.  There was a lovely walking tree lined walk that meandered down towards the malacon and small harbour.  

Dozens of stores lined the tourist area, all hoping the
few tourists will stop into their shop and buy something

The small boat harbour pangas at Loreto

Except for a large completed development a couple of miles out of town everything looked old and worn. 

Old town Loreto where you never see touristas

Old deserted building made of straw, mud ad
palm nuts mashed together

We ate lunch in town and walked form end to end before our evening bus took us back to the intersection for Puerto Escondido where we had our half hour walk back to Falcon.

The next day we went across to Honeymoon Bay on Isla Dezante and hiked to the top of the mountain for a birds eye view of the islands.

View north of Isla Dazante

Jim and Jim at the top of the mountain

Great view from the top! Carol hiked lower trails.

The wind was blowing 30 knots at the top

Carol and Jim will be leaving tomorrow, heading back to La Paz by bus where they will continue their Mexican adventure via ferry to Mazatlan then make their way south from there. 

Great view from the top of this mountain

Falcon alone in Honeymoon Bay sheltered from the wind

30 knots of wind buffeted the shoreline

We have enjoyed sharing Falcon VII with them and exploring this part of the Sea of Cortez.  They showered us with little thank you presents, dinner out and washed the salt off of Falcon for us.  Very generous indeed and appreciated.  While they washed the boat Jim and I walked to a little tienda for an unusual ice cream treat.  En route back we saw a huge 4” tarantula walking beside the road!   I’m not fond of spiders and kept my distance while Jim approached and had a closer look at the furry creature.  Hope that’s the only one we see!!!

As we don’t need to be to Puerto Vallarta until June we have a couple more months to explore this area in more detail before working our way southward.  We’re looking forward to letting the wind guide our direction.  After provisioning in Loreto then spend 2 – 3 weeks getting to know some of these anchorages getter, especially if we can snorkel as well!  We’ll let you know how it goes when we do another update in a few weeks.