November 14, 2013    Ensenada, Mexico

Mexico!  We finally made it to Ensenada, only 65 miles south of San Diego but a world away in terms of culture.  We arrived late afternoon on Thursday at the bright and colourful Cruiseport Marina, which also runs the cruise ship port next to the marina. 


Mexican navy presence in Ensenada.  Sometimes they stop cruisers to check papers

Our first glimpse of Ensenada and their huge Mexican flag near the marina

There was a big live aboard community at Cruiseport and many of them came to help us dock and to welcome us.  On both sides of Falcon VII were Kelly Peterson 44’s, the slightly smaller version of our own boat.  Small world!  Most of the cruisers around Falcon were furiously working away on projects with the hopes of getting off the docks within the month and heading south.

Cruiseport Marina Office

The view along the marina walkway leading to the main road

Anyway, we went to the office immediately to check in, knowing that there was a lengthy process to be undertaken with the Port Captain.  Staff told us to wait until Monday so we were illegal aliens all weekend long but permitted to go anywhere we wanted in town none-the-less!  A bit different than Canada or the US for sure.  It took most of Monday to go through the hoops of clearing into Mexico but it was really a very easy process, made all the better because Enriquez stayed with our marina group of 12 throughout the whole thing.  The one story cinder block building housing the Port Captain’s office also contained customs and immigration and a small bank.  After visiting each section we had to head back to the bank in the building to pay for something then on to the next window, then back to the bank, etc. In all it cost us about $56 US per person to complete the paperwork, get our Mexican Visa’s and import our boat as a Temporary Import Permit which allows us to keep Falcon VII in Mexico for up to ten years.  We were finished by 1:30 and happy to be legal!

These fellows were rigging up a pulley system to open a drawbridge so a boat could be launched.  Labour intensive!!!

A piece of public art standing about 15 feet high - you can see the chain link fence beyond

The temperatures were much the same as San Diego -  mild to warm during the days and cool in the evenings.  Night came instantly around 5:00 p.m. like a blind being lowered.  It takes some getting used to after our other cruising in Alaska where we had 18 hours of daylight instead of 12 but we will adjust!

Reflection of the civic centre

The civic centre and lovely gardens

Hibiscus hedge a the civic centre

water feature at the civic centre gardens

Over the next few days we walked all around Ensenada, and knew where we were because ‘Gringo Gulch’ had red painted sidewalks so the touristas knew where shop keepers speak English.  We found our way out of Gringo Gulch, sort of like Government Street in Victoria, right away and tested ourselves in dealing with the language barriers while we shopped for groceries, dealt with banks, purchased a Mexican Iphone and searched for permits to visit the islands of the national parks. 

This was a half finished building near the marina - had been that way for sometime



Mid November and they were setting up the Christmas trees for sale already!

Though we had trouble communicating with our little Spanish, the Mexicans we encountered were always friendly and patient with us.  On more than occasion they even took us to other offices or shops where someone spoke English to help us out or wrote an address down for us if we couldn’t understand their Spanish.  Jim was more courageous than me in attempting Spanish but we will both get more and more practice in the coming months

We were very happy to be spending time with other Victorians, namely David and Margaret from Heart and Soul and Franca, Sam and Tessa from Coconut.  Franca, Sam and Tessa purchased their boat in San Diego in July and had been in Ensenada for well over a month.  David and Margaret were having their bottom painted in the local boatyard. We bought pesos with us, which worked out to something like $1.12 US for $100 pesos.  The six of us got together for dinner the first night where the two whole roast chickens and salads meal for 7 cost only $21 US dollars.  We also discovered how delicious fish tacos were at the sidewalk stands for only $1 US each, paid in pesos, of course.  Other restaurants in Gringo Gulch were more expensive, expensive being the equivalent of $10 US for a main course but the margueritas weren’t cheap!  Groceries were definitely a better deal, with well stocked shelves and everything we could want in the line of meat and fresh produce.  Four of us went to a movie in the 6 movie theatre, which cost $3 US each.  The movie, Gravity, was in English with Spanish subtitles, and we really enjoyed it because we love science fiction.

Ensenada’s cruise ship port was active 2 – 3 times per week and, on those days, we had to pass by dozens of small families trying to sell trinkets, jewellery or small packages of chicklets to the cruise ship passengers. Older women sat on the sidewalk with cracked plastic cups held out begging for a peso.  It broke our hearts to see this so we tried to keep coins in our pockets and gave what we could as we walked by.

Cruise ship terminal beside the marina - no sunsets when the ship was in town

Ensenada was a town of contrasts, from the poor families trying to sell miniature metal bicycles made out of pop cans to the cruise ship passengers to the upscale Auto Tassa Coffee House and Starbucks downtown.  On the hills above town we could see large well built homes but in town the houses were mostly very old, made of cinder blocks and in poor condition with more modern hotels and motels right next door.

Hard to believe but this was an active storefront and housing above

Enterprising young woman with her fresh fruit cart - making a living

The local square, which had something going on each weekend.  Huge heads, Mexican forefathers, look on

During our last couple of days in town the Baja 1000 rally was in town.  Baja 1000 is a motorcycle and off road car rally where the participants drive 1000 miles down the Baja and back to Ensenada.  Hundreds of gringos invaded the main roads, took up all available hotels, set up merchandise tents, gave basketballs and hats away during the parade and brought in thousands of dollars to the locally economy. 

Hundreds of off road cars were ready to roll

For my bud, Johnny...I know you love your motorcycles too!

Off road bug - small but tough!

Thousands of families admired the cars...and had pictures taken - the future driver!

This annual event had been taking place for 46 years and was enjoyed by all.  Entire streets were closed down to accommodate not only the vehicles but also the huge tractor trailers, pit crews, media and stage.  We were there for the parade on Thursday morning but left before their 11:00 pm start.  That was ok as we had been in Ensenada a week and were anxious to get back to cruising.

Thousands of spectators viewed the cars over many blocks before the parade began

We made it to Mexico but Ensenada, being a border town, was not the ‘real’ Mexico.  That’s to come….