October 18, 2013  Catalina Island, California

We’ve spent the last few days in the Channel Islands off of the Los Angeles area coastline.  We decided we would rather make our way down the Channel Islands than along the busy ports and cities such as Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Santa Barbara, Long Beach, etc. 

We left Cojo Anchorage on Tuesday morning after a somewhat rolly night at anchor.  The crossing to the most northern island in the chain, San Miguel, was very peaceful and warm.   Pelicans and seagulls were everywhere and a dozen seals jumped right out of the water like dolphins as they passed our bow, possibly avoiding a whale I had seen closer to the shore. 

Seals moving fast across Falcon VII's bow

 
There was only one other sailboat at anchor when we arrived in the remote and beautiful anchorage at Cuyler Harbor.  Hills and cliffs, sand dunes and sandy beaches greeted us, along with a heard of quiet sea lions lined up sun tanning along the rocky shoreline below the rugged hill. 

San Miguel Island - very sand dune like and remote

Unfortunately, because of the US Government shutdown we were not able to get a park permit to go to shore so we enjoyed the quiet afternoon and evening in tropical conditions, trying to keep ourselves and the boat cool.

Sunrise over San Miguel Island

 The next morning we awoke at dawn and motored out beyond Prince Island bound for Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island.  Each of the Channel Islands has its own charm and write-ups in our cruising guide showed dozens of anchorages, some well protected and some exposed.  Though we left with the intention of making it to Scorpion Anchorage, the famous Santa Ana winds, which whip down the mainland canyons to the east as the day heats up, started blowing 25 knot winds on our bow within a couple of hours.  Jim spotted Forney Cove at the west end of the Island, a place where we could anchor and wait for the wind to change direction or die down.  The winds around the island were hot!  We anchored below a dry rolling hillside and wide expanse of sandy beach in a breezy but protected anchorage for the afternoon then left near 4:00 p.m. with a change of plans. 

The hills of Santa Cruz Island

Sunset as we head out for a night passage to Avalon

We decided to make a night passage to Avalon City on Catalina Island, aware that the full moon would help to brighten our way.  Catalina Island was the largest of the Channel Islands at about 30 miles across and one of the most southern in the group.  The evening sunset was spectacular as was the array of stars that shone brightly above us.  We flew the spinnaker gently for a few hours before motoring the rest of the way in flat calm conditions more like BC’s Gulf Islands than the exposed Channel Islands. Throughout the night the sparkling lights of big cities on the California mainland reminded us that civilization was not that far away.  I watched the full moon slowly sink below West End Point as the pink sky showed promise of another clear day over the mainland.

We arrived at Avalon City just after sunrise to be greeted by their harbour patrol who assigned us a mooring ball in the tight, compact harbour where no fewer than 250 buoys took up all available room.  After tying to the mooring we went to shore immediately and had a huge delicious breakfast in Joe’s Diner looking out at the public pier where you could explore the undersea world in a ‘submarine’, rent snorkels or small powerboats or eat takeout food.   We even spotted a couple of buffalo statues in ‘town’, a tribute to the herds of buffalo that roamed the central part of the island for many years. Avalon is famous for the beautiful 1929 casino built at Casino Point.  Though no longer operated as a casino, tours were available for $30 a person (so we passed on it) and you could watch first run movies in the evening for $15 a person (we passed on it too).

World famous Catalina Casino at Avalon

Jim enjoying an ice cream cone and the view part way up the long set of stairs

Spotting Falcon amongst all the yachts

We wandered around Avalon’s sleepy, deserted waterfront square then strolled along a few streets, surprised at how many vacation rental cottages were everywhere. Boutique shops and tourist stores, fine dining restaurants and ice cream outlets lined the main square with a few more visible in the initial two blocks or so heading away from the water.  It’s hard to imagine how busy it must be in the heat of the summer!  Small wood-sided cottages and adobe type plaster houses were tightly packed with porches only a few inches from the sidewalks and no grass anywhere.

Avalon from the top of the hill

Old coach used as a tour bus winding around the coastline

 The more expensive hillside homes were far larger and ornate, with outstanding views of the harbour.  Outdoor spaces often featured lounging areas, dining tables and even outdoor kitchens.  Clearly the inhabitants spent a fair amount of time enjoying the outdoor spaces when it was too hot to be inside.   The locals used mostly golf carts to get around and the back alleys were so narrow that only golf carts could go down them.   Some were customized and others full of ‘stuff’ just like cars.  There were a few regular cars but golf carts outnumbered those 10 to 1.

Back alleys only wide enough for a golf card

Clean, tidy streets with no lawns anywhere

After a mid-morning snooze we headed for shore again to lounge on the sandy beach and use the public showers housed in an old cliff-side tiled building.  We paid $3 a shower but for an extra $2 we could have had towels, soap and shampoo provided!  Not sure who owned the facilities but a wizened man in tee shirt and shorts ran the shower building, collecting money and cleaning up afterwards.  Next, we found delicious ice cream cones to enjoy while we started a more extensive walk up hundreds of steps and around a hilltop road where views of Avalon were outstanding. 

For our friends at Turkey Head Sailing Association

One terraced, stretched hilltop home was only half finished and had clearly been that way for years – probably a result of the 2008 stock market crash.  We walked along Crescent Avenue (we used to live on Crescent Road) then spotted Olive Street (Mom’s name) before hiking up towards a canyon where more of the immigrant locals lived in cramped apartments and multi-family houses with numerous additions. 

For my mom, Olive

Typical older housing for the workers

Bird of Paradise flowers abound in the warm climate

Most of the housing had plumbing pipes attached outside and washers/dryers on porches or decks.  No need to worry about frozen pipes in these climates!  Many of the newer homes featured colourful tiles embedded in the plaster and gardens full of bird of paradise flowers, bougainvillea, plumaria, and cacti.

By dusk we found our way back down to the waterfront where a fall festival was in full swing. The festival information spoke of children bringing community together and many of the small covered kiosks were run by kids, parents and teachers.  There was face painting, a live band playing, bales of hay laid out as  festival seating, displays of a proposed garden to be built at the elementary school but maintained by the students, organic baked goods and many ethnic food stalls set up with lots families milling around.  It was wonderful to be there and see the support for the local community and the happy children dancing to the music and picking out their pumpkins. 

The band entertaining the crowd

This adorable little girl was looking for her pumpkin on the pumpkin patch beach

Well attended local festival with families everywhere enjoying the warm evening

I saw one grandmother pushing an enormous pumpkin in the baby stroller while mom carried the infant in her arms!  All too soon it was time to head back to Falcon for dinner and to catch up with friends and family via the internet.

With some sadness, we left Avalon in the morning because we didn’t want to spend another $39 for a mooring buoy and friends were anchored at Cat Bay three hours away.  We left under perfectly calm conditions and were anchored again at Cat Harbour before lunch time.  Cat Harbour was on one side of Catalina, at the narrowest part of the island, kind of shaped like a lopsided bowtie.  After anchoring, Jim quickly headed to shore for a little exploration and came back to fetch me, excited to show me around.  On the other side of a 10 minute walk to the other side of the island sat the areas referred to as Two Harbours.  At the top of the ramp, just up a small hill to the left was a covered picnic area and…a buffalo, who had wandered down from the hills for a drink from the large galvanized trough.  Another first for me!  Buffalos were imported in the 50’s and there was quite a herd in the mountains but most were eventually taken away to large ranches in Wyoming and Montana with just a few left on Catalina Island. We hiked along a narrow path, wandering by loads of cacti and very dry grasses before continuing along the red dusty road, which was in the bottom of the valley between many rolling hills.  Towards the ‘other side’ was a small community with tiny older 40’s cottages and staff housing for those working at the little resort, which had been there since the 1940’s.

Tall ship at anchor near Falcon VII

View of Two Harbour's 'main road'

Nicest looking palm we had seen

Cacti in flower - these cacti were like weeds  - they were everywhere

Two Harbours was the site of a cruisers weekend rendezvous featuring speakers, booths, a potluck and experts available to chat about a variety of subjects.  We took in a few of the talks and socialized with our friends Margaret and David from Heart and Soul.  Last time we saw them was their departure day from Sidney at the end of August!  It was great to catch up on their travels and just hang out.

Two Harbours was also the ferry terminal for the Catalina Express, bringing dozens of partiers and campers and over for the weekend.  Camping was…an interesting concept for some.  They arrived with coolers and rolling suitcases, paying to have a shuttle take their supplies to the campground.  Two Harbours resort also offered rentals for those who were not equipped – everything from bundles of firewood and gallon containers of water could be purchased, as could a ‘smore’ package which included firewood and enough ingredients to make 11 smores!  Tents were even available for a fee.  The ferry was over $70 per adult and the minimum per person to camp was $21 per night.  Cabins were $50 per night plus $21 per person.  Clearly camping on Catalina was not a cheap endeavour!!!

In addition to the camping opportunities the area had three older painted outdoor stage areas with picnic tables set up in front of each, beach areas and a restaurant/saloon building.  There was a one room school house and a yacht club (no near the water).  The saloon was primarily an outdoor bar with plenty of outdoor seating and picnic umbrellas everywhere.  On the weekend the bar was open long before lunch and by 11:00 Sunday morning more than half the seats were occupied with many having a drink already or a beer and breakfast.

The saloon served great food but expensive drinks!

In addition to the talks and potluck the resort had a live band playing both Friday and Saturday night.  The four of us sat at a table front and centre, listening to awesome 70’s music performed by the very talented three piece rock band who called themselves the Drunken Skunks.  The band was hired to play from 6:00 pm until 10:00 pm and we danced both Friday and Saturday evenings away, reliving our youth, until the late hour of 9:00 or so!  Each evening we walked back to Cat Bay’s dinghy dock under a full moon displaying shadows as bright as the midday sun’s.  No flashlights required!

Sunday was overcast and cloudy.  Many of the cruisers were leaving, including our friends from Victoria – David and Margaret.  Though we were sorry to see them go we knew we would connect in San Diego or Ensenada.  We did go to Two Harbours during the day but the place was almost deserted.  After a picnic lunch we spent the rest of the day just enjoying the anchorage. 

On Monday morning we were happy to see clear skies because we wanted to go for a hike to see the views from the top of one of the mountains around Cat Bay.  We took off towards 11:30 a.m. and headed for the dinghy dock and from there we backtracked along the shoreline to a sort of goat path that started up the mountain.  It was a steep climb that forced us to rest from time to time but the views were getting better and better. 

The anchorage was a long way away!

This helicopter dropped of a family and their luggage - the rich don't take the ferry!

About half way up there was clear evidence of a shift in the ground with large gaps and crevices visible and entire areas along the edge where the ground have given away.  We realized that a wrong step could be fatal and very carefully made our way up and up and up the steep slope.  After another hour we eventually made it to the summit still huffing and puffing but we were rewarded with spectacular vistas in all directions. 

We made it!

Check out that view!

Not quite an aerial view but this shows Cat Harbour and Two Harbours from the top

When we caught our breath and chuckled because there was a red dirt road running along the top ridge of the hills to the summit, which we could have easily taken instead!  As it appeared far safer than the route we had just gone up, we decided to walk along the ridge then descend closer to Two Harbours. 

Falcon VII is down there somewhere...

The road at the top of the ridge, a much easier walk back for sure!

Wound barbed wire sign put there as a joke

There was a wire fence near the cliff face which had become a ‘wall’ where people could write their names or whatever they wanted in left over barbed wire.  We took a photo of the ‘beach access’ sign because it was so creative.  After a good 45 minutes we found a path leading down towards the community and eventually came out at the bottom hungry but unscathed. 

Woodpecker hard at work along the winding roadway

Same tall ship cruising off of Two Harbors

There it is - the 'hill' we climbed to the top

Being Monday, the resort was all but closed up so we headed back to Falcon to have an early dinner and recover from our expedition.  All in all we really enjoyed Cat Bay and Catalina Island and will remember it fondly.